Camino Portuegese - Part 10

Walking the Spiritual Route - Pontevedra to Padron

As I left Pontevedra and headed into the forests and vineyards, the skies opened up. Pouring rain that soaked every part of the body. And it rained and rained all day long. At the 3km mark, all peregrinos have a decision to make. The main central route turns right. It follows old and new roads to the town of Caldas da Reis. To the left is the Spiritual Variant. The name signifies the last part of the journey of the remains of the Apostle St. James. It winds its way from forests and coastal towns into vineyards. Most turn right.

I turned left. The path was quiet. Song of birds and rain keeping me company

My first stop for the night was in Combarro, a coastal fishing village with an interesting history. The old town has been preserved since the 18th century. Seaside stone houses which include horreos or mini houses that store food and grain. Dotted throughout the old town are cruceiras or stone crosses where witches or meigas held their meetings. Galicia is steeped in mysticism and witchcraft. Meigas were the wise women with knowledge of medicinal herbs and healing.

The moment I left Combarro it was all uphill. The village gave way to a beautiful Galicia Forest. The sun played peek a boo which added to the mystique. The day ended at the Monastery of Armenteira. The monastery dates back to 1162 but incorporated by the Benedictine monks in 1523. The monastery was abandoned in 1837 and now just ruins. Only the church remains

View from my guesthouse in Armenteira

Magic. It takes many forms and shapes. The sisters who opened their childhood home to strangers each and every day. Providing security and comfort, a home cooked meal and a safe place to stay on the road. A wooded forest trail, damp with mildew and a stream that runs through it. Medieval mills still standing and boulders to climb over. I wonder how many feet have walked this trail and felt the spirit of the woods come alive. What draws peregrinos to take the Spiritual Variant is this route, the Ruta de Pedra e Agua (aka the Route of Stone and Water)

The path is between 6-8 km long, starting with a dirt road that turns to stones bordering the river. Dotted through the trail are ancient mills which use the river water to grind corn.

The forest path opens up to farmland and vineyards. Having missed the grape harvest by a few weeks, it was nice to see a few leaves turning into their red autumn colors along with a pumpkin patch. Ahh, October is nigh. Stopping to taste the sweet / dry white Alberino wine which this region is known for. An amazing varietal blend of Sav. Blanc and Pinot Grigio with a hint of Reisling.

There is a time when you feel completely at peace. The decisions you make, the path you take, the people you connect with. Today's walk went through more vineyards and small villages ending in Vilanova de Arousa, a coastal town with outlet to the Atlantic Ocean. It's a time of reflection. Plenty of time to walk around the town and have a pint or two at the local brewpub.

It was a super early morning. Weather forecast called for drizzle starting at 11am. Boy were they wrong. Already misting, dark and foggy at 7:15am, as I boarded a boat to take us across the estuary and up the river to connect us with the main Camino route. As dawn arrived, we were greeted with forests on both side of the river.

The boat drops us of at Pontecesures as I walk the 2km to Padron. The rain washed away from plans for a walking tour. So instead, I just walked to Iglesias de Santiago, the church that holds the stone that held the body of Saint James. And sampled the infamous Padron Peppers.

After lunch, I left Padron behind and walked the last 6 km for my last night on the Camino. It was only fitting to stay in an albergues where it all began. I walked in the rain through vineyards, villages and corn fields. With tired and wet feet, we cooked frozen pizzas over some beers and chatted about our Caminos. As September comes to a close, the feelings are bittersweet. It's been a magical experience. A chance to reflect on where I have been and what to look forward to. The journey started a long time ago as I collected rocks and shells to place along the way. Each rock symbolizing a different phase in life. and a weight lifted off my soul. For tomorrow I reach Santiago de Compostela.