Camino Portuguese - Part 3

All Roads Lead Back to the Ocean - Mindelo to Esponsende

I spent the morning walking along the beach. Then onto the boardwalk, dunes, sand, cobblestone and concrete.

Vila do Conde - This charming city, located north of Porto, was historically a center for shipbuilding and seafaring. I had lunch overlooking the historic square.

"Mother, mother ocean, I have heard you call"

The endless coastline continued. The waves hitting the rocky shore in a trance like state. But the next city and stopping point was in sight.

Povoa de Varzim. This city is a smaller version of Porto with a historic center lined with cobblestone street, stone buildings, row after row of stores to wander and an amazing beach. After a 20km walk it was nice to sleep in a private room.

The Camino provides is not just a saying that pilgrims tell each other. It's a way of life on the road. Some days you are lost. Thinking of why you are doing this. Signs appear to guide you. This morning a nun was standing behind me in line at the supermarket. She saw the scalloped shell, gave me a pilgrim blessing and as buen camino. I just knew it was going to be a great day.

I left Povoa de Varzim following the endless white sandy beaches, reminiscing of St. Pete and knew it was time to get another seashell out of my bag. As I reached in, a shell just popped out and landed on the sand.

Today was also a decision day. Do I stay on the Sendra Litorial way which I have been walking since I left Porto. Staying meant wind, oceans and boardwalks. Or do I move inland and follow the original coastal way through residential neighborhoods. My heart followed the ocean through boardwalks, dunes, cornfields and yes even a golf course. And came across an amazing seafood restaurant with no pilgrims in site.

I walk to Smell the Ocean

A few hours later I arrived at the town of Fao. Fao has a very interesting history. In the Middle Ages it was a salt production center. Nowadays many Brazilians call it home. I found a great brewery on the river to chat with a pilgrim couple from Guam. And stayed in an amazing guesthouse located a five-minute walk to the river.

The interesting part of walking the Camino is that not every day is the same. Sometimes you walk 25 kilometers and other days only 6km. It all depends on where you find a place to stay. After a great night in a guesthouse, I knew it was only a short walk over the bridge to the next city of Esponsende. The clouds rolled in overnight with a threat of rain. Turned out to be a perfect morning to explore several Museums.

Exploration - Portugal and England have a mutual relationship that dates back to the 10th century. With the Atlantic Ocean bordering both countries, maritime history has played a huge role. Think back to elementary school and the days learning about famous explorers. The Maritime Museum has exhibits on famous Portuguese explorers including Dias, the first European to sail around the Cape of Good Hope. Da Gama, the first European to sail to India which opened up the spice route. And Magellan, the first person to sail around the globe. Maritime Museum of Esposende All three men ushered in the age of exploration.

I also checked out the municipal museum which focused on historical collections before heading to another guesthouse for the night. This guest house included a full kitchen where I was finally able to cool dinner.